Initiation to the Southern Hemisphere

12/5/06

Hey, I thought hazing was illegal!! Well, guess not. We first-time equator crossers—three passengers and five crew members—are roped together and marched to a large open deck at the bow of the ship. There a “doctor” examines us with his all-purpose toilet plunger stethoscope (dipped in heavy fuel oil for crew members), Blackbeard shaves us using grease and his pirate knife, and we are sprayed down with sea water from the fire hose—to the delight all aboard. Witnesses are King Neptune himself and several other unidentifiable characters. At least, we aren’t keel hauled!


After the ceremony and a brief but certainly dignified speech by the captain a festive barbecue awaited us. On the fantail of the ship two large cooking-fires blaze next to a sign that reads “No smoking, dangerous cargo on board.” The drinks and wine preceding the food erase all concerns. While the captain welcomes us as “able seamen,” he assures us we still aren’t on the payroll.

We are roughly halfway through our 10 days of open water before our next port, Tahiti. There is no way to understand the vastness of this ocean other than experiencing it, day after day, water in all directions. Imagine the early sailing vessels, dependent upon the wind, in deep – uh – water if it didn’t blow, deeper if a typhoon swept through. The sea gods grace us with sightings of dolphins, flocks of flying fish, and even a couple of whales breeching and carrying on as if they have no responsibilities.