The Upper West Side

Time slides by as we slide down along the Indian Ocean. We must put up with outlandish limestone rock formations, endless white sand beaches and turquoise water. You think it’s easy? We labor at perfecting our electricityless lifestyle with plenty of free camping in scenic spots. The joke does not escape us: we worked hard at our careers for years in order to reach this pinnacle. So now we wash our meager wardrobe in a bucket, often using river water. Our bodies, too. At night we read by battery-powered headlamps and go to sleep early with the moon and stars as our only ambient light. Our mobile phone seldom finds a signal.



This region is known as the Pilbara. Much of it is industrial. Line up to fill your salt shakers from this mountain. Did you realize that what you sprinkle on your food has been driven over by huge trucks and tractors? Ah, so that’s where that subtle petroleum after-taste comes from….

Not far inland we visit a mountain which is slowly being erased by iron mining. The operation and equipment are massive. Ultimately all that will be left is a hole in the ground. Trains and more trains, each up to two and a half kilometers(!) long, haul the red ore to the coast where it is loaded onto ships bound for China.

As it happens, the Pilbara has the oldest exposed rocks in the world. Not far from this iron mine is Karijini, a spectacular national park known, as most NPs in Oz are, for its gorgeous gorges with rock pools and waterfalls. These are among the finest and most challenging we’ve hiked. One trail leads to a slot canyon where hikers must “spider walk” over rushing water.



Outside the park once again we find a roadside hill known as RIP Lookout. Surprise, it really does mean “Rest In Peace.” Surrounding the parking area are hundreds of rocks resting on and around boulders, each dedicated to a loved one who has died. It’s inspirational! Double-click the photo to get an enlargement. Of course we must spend the night and add a couple of inscribed rocks of our own.

Back on the coast we can’t seem to leave Cape Range NP on the Exmouth peninsula. The Ningaloo Reef runs close to the shoreline. Popular activities include snorkeling and scuba diving in the clear waters, but we’re content to watch from the sand since sharks were seen playing with their food (something large) the day after our arrival. We’re staying at an official campground, though composting loos are the only amenity. The two-week school holidays are on, and we’ve met some terrific people here.

In the Visitors Centre we met JoeJoe, a baby kangaroo. A couple of months ago his mother was killed when she jumped in front of a car. The joey survived, so the family rescued him and are raising him until he’s old enough to hop back into his habitat. For now he’s very cute and curious And he wears nappies!

Last but not least, the obligatory On-the-Cliff-Edge shot, here high over Shothole Canyon.